To show at London Fashion Week or not? That was the question at this year’s event for young independent brands facing rising costs and soaring inflation after Brexit.
Since its founding 40 years ago, London Fashion Week has provided a platform for emerging designers fresh out of prestigious schools like Central Saint Martins, alongside big names like Burberry.
But British Fashion Council chief executive Caroline Rush said it was an “incredibly difficult” time for young brands, with persistently high inflation and the economic impact of Brexit prolonging the UK’s cost of living crisis. He said that he was welcoming.
London Fashion Week opened on Friday, just days after official data revealed Britain was sliding into recession as high inflation hit households and businesses. The event ends on Tuesday, and the second LFW of the year is scheduled for September.
– Skip the program –
This year’s Fashion Week saw the return of Dublin-born menswear designer Robin Lynch and Turkish-British designer Dilara Findikoglu. Both are up-and-coming and popular talents.
The latter’s provocative women’s clothing has made Findikoglu one of the most anticipated names showcasing the latest designs.
However, she canceled her September 2023 show in London at the last minute, telling the New York Times, “I don’t have the funds to do a runway show right now.”
Designers tend to book both shows in a year.
This time, the KWK by KAY KWOK show was canceled following an unspecified incident at a factory in China that destroyed important pieces that were to be featured on the London catwalk.
Meanwhile, Nenshi Dojaka did not appear in the latest show.
Rush downplayed his absence.
“There’s nothing wrong with skipping a season. It doesn’t mean you’re not continuing to develop,” she told AFP.
“In some cases, designers may be offered a free venue in another city…which may force them to move away from London,” she added.
With the support of Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana, the label Feben has decided to show in Milan this season.
– Human resource development device –
A way for up-and-coming talent to showcase their work without spending a lot of money is to give them a place on the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN talent incubator programme, which recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. .
Those lucky enough to secure a space will receive a grant to “support the creation of the collection,” Rush explained.
“They will be coached on what it means to run a business, cash flow, management, margins, export preparation and more.”
The program also provides a venue for shows at London Fashion Week. For example, a hotel close to the main venue.
“So they don’t have the money for a venue, lighting, security, health and safety, backstage infrastructure and front-of-the-theater infrastructure,” Rush pointed out.
The council is offering three-year grants totaling around £80,000 ($101,000). This can be used to develop design and branding without worrying that a basic show costs around her £50,000.
Current beneficiaries include Simone Rocha and JW Anderson, but there are also incubator programs such as Fashion East that support young British designers.
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