aAs I step into the rainy streets of Shin-Okubo, Tokyo’s vibrant Koreatown, just a few stops from Shinjuku, the damp air fills with anticipation. This bustling neighborhood, formed by the Korean community since the 1980s, is the backdrop for my long-awaited reunion with my younger brother, Payne. As he approached, I waved and we hugged – our first hug in six years.
As Burmese brothers, we are well aware of the twists and turns that can occur in life. Political turmoil in our homeland forced us to pack up for the other side of the world. I went to England in 2010 at the age of 17, and Payne went to America a few years later for university.We had a brief reunion in London for the graduation ceremony. We reunited in 2017, but since then, life (and a global pandemic) has thwarted our plans to reconnect.
Six years after their last meaningful encounter, he now lives in Tokyo and is pursuing a scholarship at Keio University, one of Japan’s oldest private universities and home to notable alumni including author Haruki Murakami. He is aiming to earn money and earn a master’s degree. And I’m ready to be reunited with his brother here in this little soul of Tokyo.
Min Set Hein (left) and her younger brother Payne together for the first time in six years
I had a week to go, including my brother’s birthday, and I couldn’t have asked for a better local guide to show me around, even if my Japanese wasn’t very fluent yet.
When we meet, we don’t get sentimental or emotional. No, we express brotherhood through food. In our culture, food is the ultimate expression of love. Our mother, like countless other Asian mothers, always greeted us with “Did you eat?” instead of “How are you?” If you’re full, you don’t need emotions. And there’s no better place to tantalize your taste buds than Japan. From small ramen shops to fancy sushi restaurants, you’ll find it all. And the Japanese seem to treat every dish like a masterpiece.
There were gourmet perks when staying in Koreatown. Dongchan was a standout in a Korean BBQ joint that was all about grilled pork belly. The man behind the restaurant’s recent growth is Jae Won Koo, a young mogul who ditched his studies in menswear at the London College of Fashion for a chance to reinvent the family business. Dressed in a Gucci suit, he slices into juicy pork belly and regales me with tales of his clearly memorable stay in England. The restaurant’s new look is a cheeky homage to the Brick His Lane bagel shop that captured his heart and stomach (main menus from £9; instagram.com/tonchang_okubo).
Min and Payne as children in Myanmar
Another great dining experience is the 100-year-old Robata Honten. Izakaya Located in the fashionable Ginza neighborhood (a bar with food). Despite the plush surroundings, the bar is full of artsy charm, with famous poet Octavio Paz’s handwritten notes proudly displayed on the walls. No English menu? No problem. The staff are great at deciphering what we mean and we just nod along to their suggestions (mains from £5).
One evening, Kinga Czupack, a Polish-born Japanese studies graduate who works as a guide here, takes us on a tour of her favourite Shinjuku watering holes. We start at Hanbey, a cheap, casual izakaya chain decorated with vintage Japanese posters and memorabilia. While I’m not exactly a fan of the raw cabbage snacks served with salt and soy sauce, they’re a refreshing change from the usual salted peanuts (snacks from 50p; hanbey.com).
Takoyaki, on the other hand, is a snack that I can put off. These flavorful taco balls are perfect with a cold beer, or in my case, a highball. A simple yet satisfying blend of whiskey and soda, the highball became my favorite drink in Japan. Light and refreshing, it pairs well with any meal.
Takoyaki is perfect with cold beer or highballs
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Next, we headed to Robata Sho, an izakaya specializing in robata. robatayaki A dish in which meat, seafood, and vegetables are grilled over charcoal. Japanese people tend to like their chicken pink, so stick to seafood and vegetable options. I really liked the grilled rice balls. Yaki Onigiri are grilled rice balls topped with butter and dramatically charred on hot charcoal at the table (small plates from £1.50; robata-sho-shinjuku.com).
If you end up eating pink chicken, it might be a good idea to pray for good health at the nearby Hanazono Shrine. Despite its proximity to the neon lights of Shinjuku, there is a sense of calm and tranquility. One interesting feature common to most shrines is the strategically angled mirror in the main hall. This allows worshipers to see an image of themselves while praying, symbolizing their inner divinity.
Growing up in a Buddhist family in Myanmar, my brother and I are used to the peaceful atmosphere of shrines and temples. At the age of 14, we gave up our worldly possessions and even lived as monks in a monastery for a month. I can’t help but think of my parents’ reaction when they saw us reunited in Tokyo. They may shake their heads at our antics, but they’ll be happy to know we’re bonding even if they miss not being here to share this moment.
Hanazono Shrine is a popular place for businessmen to pray for success
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If you’re planning on visiting Tokyo’s famous shrines and temples, including the ever-popular Sensoji, head out early. After 9:30 a.m., you’ll be battling hordes of tourists wearing rented kimonos and brandishing selfie sticks like samurai swords. It’s like seeking spiritual solace in the midst of a carnival frenzy, but in vain. Instead, go to the Samurai Ninja Museum Tokyo in Asakusa. Just a shuriken throw away from Sensoji Temple, it’s a treasure trove of Edo-era armor and weapons (£15.50, mai-ko.com).
Our group tour guide was an attractive man in a ninja outfit, just like you see on TV. But he revealed a little secret. Real ninjas didn’t look like we’d expect, they actually rocked the peasant look. For an admission fee, you can take part in a shuriken duel, and at the end of the tour, channel your inner samurai by posing for a photo in some not-so-authentic armor.Not to toot my own horn, but I nailed the bullseye on his first shuriken chuck—looks like he’s been playing with it for hours fruit ninja It wasn’t a waste of time after all.
Shimokitazawa is known as a town of vintage shops.
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Located a two-minute walk from Asakusa Station, Asakusa Underground Mall is Japan’s oldest underground shopping mall, built in 1955, and offers a glimpse into the Showa era that defined Japan’s post-World War II economic boom. The area’s timeless barber shops, haunted parlours and vintage stores capture the essence of that transformative period; exposed (and occasionally leaking) pipes in the ceiling only add to the nostalgia.
For my brother’s birthday, we visited the Mori Art Museum. A mecca for contemporary art in Roppongi’s entertainment district, it not only hosts cutting-edge international exhibitions, but also offers panoramic views of the city. It does not have a permanent collection, but instead hosts special exhibitions of contemporary artists’ work with a focus on Japan (£7.70, mori.art.museum).
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The exhibition we see is Our ecology: towards life on Eartha response to the environmental crisis. Work by Berlin-based Swedish artist Nina Kanell. muscle memory, an immersive installation in which seven tons of crushed seashells cover the gallery floor, struck a chord with me. Museum staff encouraged us to interact with the pieces, and we jumped over the shells. As they crunch under our feet, I can’t help but think about the scattered state of my family.
It’s been more than 10 years since we last spent time together, with my parents living in Myanmar, me in England, and my younger brother in Japan. As I feel my shell crumbling step by step, I wonder if we will ever be together again, or if we are doomed to remain adrift, connected only by the threads of memory and common history. doubt.
While I was silently thinking about this, I arrived at my next destination. It’s a welcome change of pace as you explore Shimokitazawa, a hip neighborhood known for its thrift shops that range from affordable to incredibly expensive. Between shelves lined with retro threads are all sorts of quirky gift shops selling everything from cute cat handmade pottery to toe socks.
We managed to get my brother a trench coat that balances detective chic with enigmatic stranger for less than £20. As I wander the neon-lit streets of Shimokitazawa in search of my next meal, I can’t help but feel all is right with the world. Sure, our family is scattered all over the world and the future may be uncertain, but in that moment, we are both together and that is enough.
Min Set Hine was traveling alone, but he joined Inside Japan for one night as a guest. Her 13-night B&B on Inside Japan’s Gastronomic Adventures starts from £3,580 per person and includes transport, private guide and dining experience (home page).fly to Tokyo
Tokyo Trip
Biker in Shinjuku
Min Set Hine
Shin-Okubo, Tokyo’s vibrant Korean town
Unknown, cleared with picture desk
Izakaya in Shimokitazawa
Min Set Hine
Asakusa Underground Mall
Min Set Hine
Crowded subway on Tokyo Marunouchi Line
Min Set Hine
A man sunbathing in the park in front of the high school
Min Set Hine
Hanbei is a cheap, casual izakaya chain decorated with vintage Japanese posters and memorabilia
Min Set Hine
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