It wasn’t love at first bite. It wasn’t like that. In fact, the first time I visited Pollini, an Italian restaurant in Kensington’s newly restored Ladbroke Hall, I hated the place.
The room was cold and cavernous, the noise a cacophony, and a large bar thumping in the middle. In other words, the space was unnaturally cut into two. The tables of four or more were so large that sign language was required to even attempt a conversation, but the menu offered lasagna, the chef’s “interpretation of his mother’s classic dish” (wait for it). please). Mamma Bloody Mia.
Tom’s verdict: “Pollini serves the best Italian food in London”
Wonderful fresh shrimp remind me of summer in southern Italy
But in my defence, I visited during the chaotic period of pre-Christmas revelry and was thoroughly, well, refreshed thanks to a lunch that lasted until late afternoon.
So we return at the beginning of the new year. At this time, the excesses of the festivities are just a blur of indigestion in the rearview mirror, and the eyes light up again.
Things are quiet, as they are everywhere, and the room, which still resembles the entrance hall of some grand old museum, is half empty. This is a problem because this space requires the clanking of knives and forks. However, it is fully booked on weekends.
The service is very smooth and sweet. And the food, directed by its namesake Emanuele Pollini, is truly delicious. The ingredients are top notch. and an exceptional yellowtail crudo, which was thankfully left untouched. The sashimi-grade fish, sliced so thinly that you can see the plate below, is drenched in golden grassy olive oil.
Enjoy the finest, richly flavored Amalfi anchovies with cold butter. And the extraordinarily sweet Sicilian prosciutto.
The fritto misto was beautifully done, with a crunchy, oil-free batter that lightly wrapped itself around the large, wonderfully fresh shrimp. They remind me of summers in southern Italy and horrible winters in west London. And 6 bugs he also weighed 34 pounds. In this part of town, this is almost a bargain.
Even that “interpretation” of Pollini’s mother’s lasagna is much better than it sounds – fresh pasta stuffed with béchamel and surrounded by a neatly piled authentic beef ragu. Serve with shredded fried pasta.
But why bother with “interpretation”? I want the real thing. Anyway, Pollini serves the best Italian food in London. It’s enough to fill that room.
Approximately £45 per person.PolRini, 79 Barlby Road, London W10; ladbrokehall.com/restaurant