Chef Óscar González Moreno brings Andalusian cuisine to discerning travelers and palates with his latest initiative, “Spain and Chefs”.
On an unusually cloudy morning, I meet professional chef Oscar González Moreno at the entrance to the famous Triana Mercado in Seville, Spain.
Although the weather was warm, it was late autumn, so the locals were dressed for the season: comfortable sweaters and boots. Oscar took me to the market. Coincidentally, it was located atop the Castello di San He Jorge, a medieval fortress and headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition.
We passed a fish stall, a vegetable stall, and a butcher selling pig ears. Oscar explained that pig ears are good for bones because they contain a lot of gelatin. As we made our way down the aisle, we stopped to admire, or at least pay our respects to, a whole rabbit whose fur was still intact.
Seated at a small table at the back of the market, we ordered espressos and indulged in a traditional Spanish breakfast of tostada con tomate y asite, toast with crushed tomatoes and olive oil. did.
personalized experience
Oscar completed his training at the prestigious Escuela Hacienda La Laguna in Baeza, Jaen and has created countless dishes in Spanish tapas bars around the world. He recently founded his own private tour company. spain and chef In Seville. Small groups interested in a one-day experience or a multi-day stay, such as learning about Spanish wine, a day trip to Jerez for a sherry tasting, or simply exploring why Spain has the best olive oil in Spain Designed for solo travelers. world.
I had high expectations as I hate big tours and prefer to delve into the history of a place through meaningful conversations. That’s why I was thrilled to learn that Oscar had no plans. He customizes each tour and generously shares his culinary secrets, from how to make the best paella (it’s in the soup) to how to tell which is the best quality Iberico jamon on the market .
To the untrained eye, the pig’s feet hanging everywhere looked the same, but Oscar solved the mystery. The secret lies in the color of the hoof. Black hooves suggest that the pig spends endless hours in the free range foraging for acorns.
After breakfast we stopped at one of the fruit stalls where he pointed out the regional selection and said that Calanda peaches, one of the best in Spain, are wrapped in plastic to remain on the tree to help them grow. He told me that it was rare.
When asked why Oscar caters to individuals rather than larger groups where he could earn more money, he would rather spend time with travelers who want to delve deeper into the nuances of southern Spain’s culture. He said he wanted to. He is a person who is open to taking it easy rather than hopping from one tourist spot to the next, and most importantly, who appreciates the little things like the smooth texture of the payoyo cheese he ordered us. I like to spend time with them. This semi-hard cheese made from goat’s milk offers a subtle mixture of nutty flavors and herbs and has a beautiful finish.
The two hours passed quickly as we talked with the vendors, with Oscar happily translating for us. He explained to me which fish was the freshest at the fish store. We all agreed on hake. I was hesitant to buy a whole fish with its beady eyes and sharp, menacing teeth, but the fishmonger will fillet it for you if you ask, but you’ll still be charged for the head and head. He assured me that it would be. Since it was a bone, I was happy to take it with me. Dear reader, I was not.
Dive into Spanish Cuisine
We finished the tour having learned a lot, but a few days later we found ourselves attending Oscar’s cooking class, where the four of us made Solomillo al Pedro Jimenez (a classic dish made with sherry). I made salmorejo, a cold soup consisting of pork (pork), seafood paella, and tomatoes. , mix bread, olive oil, garlic and sherry vinegar and top with chopped boiled eggs and ham.
As we sat together to enjoy the wines we lovingly made, including a delicious sherry from Jerez, the conversation turned to the history of the popular Bacalao. Bacalao is a white, flaky cod that is almost predictably on the menu at tapas bars and is usually, but sometimes, fried. Serve with piste or vegetable stew. Oscar said that historically bacalao was considered a poor man’s fish because it was easy to transport and because it had to be preserved in Andalusia’s harsh heat, it was cured in salt, which was more economical than ice. It is said that there is. We finished the meal with Crema His Catalina, a perfect custard with notes of citrus and cinnamon.
Step out of your culinary comfort zone
A week later, my friend and I signed up for Oscar’s customized tapas tour. This took me way out of my culinary comfort zone. Our first stop was a small tapas bar serving the classic espinacas con garbanzo (spinach and chickpeas) with just the right balance of cumin, tomatoes and olive oil.
Next, we headed through a side street to a small shop full of locals ordering fried food. Oscar chose the popular adobo, a fried fish tossed with vinegar and spices, and re-explained the history of this Andalusian staple. Our last stop was a fusion restaurant with a twist on traditional tapas, with blood pudding ravioli (which I politely declined) and a delicious broccoli salad topped with plantain chips and caviar. , thinly sliced smoked salmon finished with a delicate mustard sauce and dill.
As we finished the tour drinking cafe con leche and sharing sweets Oscar had bought from a famous bakery, I told him that cooking was an art, but he scoffed. He said cooking is first and foremost about nourishing, and that’s what Oscar is doing for Spain and its chefs. It nourishes the soul and expands the minds of those who visit this beautiful and vibrant city.