When Duffy arrived in New York on Wednesday after spending a week attending haute couture shows in Paris, finding a wig was at the top of her to-do list. Marc Jacobs’ lead hairstylist for his Spring 2024 show needed him to source 108 total lace human hair wigs within 48 hours. “Everything had to be peeled off the silicone, hand colored, crimped and set,” Duffy said backstage a few hours before the show. Duffy explains that the show is all about “an absurdist play on silhouette, proportion and structure.” This includes the costumes, the sets (featuring Robert Therrien’s sculpture “No title (folding table and chairs, beige)”), and the aesthetics.
“This shape is reminiscent of the disco moment of the late ’60s and early ’70s,” Duffy explains. Images of the Supremes featuring towering, heavily teased bulges can be found on the show’s mood board. The look for this show wasn’t a direct copy or literal interpretation of his R&B girl group, but it was the starting point for the idea of overly proportioned hair.
To prepare the model for the wig, the stylist used hairspray to bed down the hair before applying the wig wrap. I used L’Oréal Paris Elnet Satin Extra Strong Hold Hairspray and Redken Forceful 23 Hairspray to finish the look after wearing the wig. Speaking of the Supremes, Diana Ross and her signature winged eyelashes and pale lips were a big inspiration for the show’s makeup. “We wanted to create an iconic look and add a twist,” says Diane Kendall backstage.

Mood board of beautiful looks.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng

The room where completed wigs were stored.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng

Photo: WWD/Getty Images.

Backstage model.
Photo: Ama Kwarteng.
The show’s lead makeup artist used Cetaphil’s Gentle Skin Cleansing Cloth, Hydrating Eye Gel Cream, and Daily Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer to prep her skin before applying her base. “It’s really important to keep your skin moisturized so that the foundation absorbs well,” she explains. She applied highlights in the form of white greasepaint to the inner corners of her eyes, under her eyebrows, and above her brow bone, and topped it with white powder. Next, I used Laura Mercier Ruth’s Setting Her Powder to give my skin a matte finish.
Ahead of the show, her team spent two days coating her top and bottom lashes with black nail polish, creating a spidery, glossy finish. I applied black eyeliner to my upper lashes, followed by black Duo glue. “To give the eyes real density,” Kendall explains. The makeup artist completed the look with a matte lip. “I used a taupe lip color and dabbed foundation in the center to create a very matte mauve lip.” Overall, the ’60s-inspired doll-like look visually It was a feast of surrealism.