With so many products on the shelves, it can feel like you need a degree in cosmetic science to understand exactly which ingredients to look for to get the most out of your skin care routine. I don’t know. And with different ingredients gaining hype online every week, it’s easy to be drawn to the buzz of what’s being touted as the next skincare essential, like niacinamide one day and azelaic acid the next. . And just because it’s trending on TikTok, does that mean it’s really true to its claims?
To separate the hype from the science, I spoke to a group of skin experts, dermatologists, and doctors to find out which skin care ingredients are just not good. They may be widely included in the ingredient lists of the most popular skin care products on the market, but when you actually look into them, there isn’t enough research to justify their bold claims. Not done.
Below, we’ll introduce you to five completely unproven skin care ingredients and the effective alternatives recommended by experts.
1. Local collagen
Even though almost all smoothing and plumping moisturizers contain it, general practitioners and dermatologists Dr. Sonia Khorana We believe that topical collagen has no effect on producing visible results. “Creams, including topical formulas, don’t do much for your skin other than moisturizing it,” explains Dr. Sonia. “Collagen production cannot be stimulated because it is a huge molecule and does not penetrate the skin well.”
Instead, she recommends using proven ingredients like retinoids and peptides to support skin health, with “decades of research supporting these ingredients.”
Naturium multi-peptide moisturizer
Ole Henriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer
2. Topical CBD
CBD has become something of a hot skincare ingredient in recent years, with brands claiming its antioxidant properties can help with everything from soothing breakouts to improving skin tone. But despite the initial scientific support, Dr. Khorana believes more research is needed. “A 2020 study suggested that CBD may help with skin inflammation, but is it true that CBD fits into the category of overrated skin care ingredients or does it actually deliver the benefits it promises?” We need more to determine whether it is a thing,” Dr. Sonia explains. “Research on this trending skin care ingredient is limited, so you don’t need it yet to purchase CBD skin care products.
If you want to treat pigmentation or uneven skin tone, look for a vitamin C serum instead. Vitamin C serum is a proven antioxidant that protects skin, evens out tone, and targets pigmentation caused by breakouts.
Simple Booster Serum 10% Vitamin C+E+F
3. Bakuchiol
Retinoids are one of the most effective groups of skin care ingredients at our disposal, working to stimulate collagen, renew cells, and increase the skin’s ability to unclog pores. However, it can cause irritation, especially if your skin is sensitive. Bakuchiol is often sold as a natural alternative, but Skin + Me dermatologist Dr. Beibei Du Harper is skeptical of such claims. “Vaxiol is often touted as a ‘natural’ retinoid alternative with retinoid-like effects. There have been some peer-reviewed clinical trials on bakuchiol, but personally I find it difficult to recommend bakuchiol as they are not particularly impressive. that’s all retinoids,” explains Dr. Baybay.
Instead, Dr Beibei recommends the lesser-known skin care ingredient ectoine, which is included in all Skin + Me serums. “This is an incredibly well-studied ingredient that has been shown to have barrier support, anti-inflammatory, and even photoprotective effects.”
Biossance Squalane and Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
Skin + Me Brightening + Boost Firming Vitamin C Serum
4. Snail mucin
Snail mucin, a popular ingredient in Korean skin care, is something of an unproven skin care ingredient that even general practitioner and esthetician Dr. Ahmed El Muntasar has not evaluated. “When it comes to unproven skin care ingredients, the one that gets the most hype is snail mucin. Sure, its texture and slimy feel look super cool on camera, but outside of TikTok its use is… I don’t think there’s much evidence to support it,” Dr. Ahmed explains.
“Yes, it can be used for hydration, but there are a lot of better ingredients that can help with that. Things like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides are obviously basic ingredients, but they’re all effective and there are better alternatives. is.”
The Inkey List Bioactive Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer
Bioma Moisturizing Gel Cream
5. Caviar
It may sound extravagant, but when this expensive ingredient is taken out of its context at a Michelin restaurant and transferred to our moisturizers, it’s actually quite divisive among skin experts. “Because of its established status in the culinary world, caviar is often seen as a premium skin care ingredient. While it’s true that it’s an emollient with moisturizing abilities, it’s not as effective as advertised. “There is no clinical evidence to support many claims that this is the case,” explains Dr. Aggie Zatonska, cosmetic physician and founder of Atelier Clinic.
Instead, simple ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid provide all the moisture your skin needs.
Aveeno Face Calm and Restore Triple Oats Serum
Beauty pie triple hyaluronic acid