The first meal I ate as an American citizen was a Big Mac. This was in September 2013, and the naturalization ceremony cost less than $5 at a McDonald’s near the courthouse in downtown Manhattan.
I didn’t expect to enjoy it. I like my burgers greasy and flavorful, but I found the Big Mac too dry and bland. But McDonald’s was just around the corner, and a burger was the perfect way to commemorate a uniquely American experience.
Since I was in New York, there were many expensive patty-in-a-buns to choose from. My friend, foodie guru, and Bloomberg Opinion colleague Howard Chua-Eoan once took me to lunch at DB Bistro Moderne in Midtown. There, chef Daniel Boulud’s burgers were made with a combination of short rib, ground prime rib, foie gras, and a touch of brassicas. Truffles, $29.
But to me, it’s the quintessentially American dish, the cheap hamburger, the quintessence of our national dish and a vehicle of international soft power, on par with blue jeans and Coke. This is also America’s favorite dish. We eat an estimated 50 billion hamburgers a year, the majority of which are made by affordable restaurant chains like McDonald’s and Burger King.
It’s the “third place” for millions of Americans who think of eating out as eating at these restaurants. The term was coined by sociologist Ray Oldenburg to describe the social environment in which people are most likely to spend their time after home and work. This may come as a surprise to those who live in large cities with other third places, such as parks and coffee shops. – And McDonald’s is just a collection point for grab-and-go meals. But in small towns, especially in poor and middle-income areas, McDonald’s also serves as a community center where people build and foster physical social networks. It can be a public square where people break free from their social media bubbles and encounter a wider range of ideas.
So if Americans are enthused and bothered by the rising costs of eating their favorite foods in their favorite places, they should pay attention. Last July, an image taken at a McDonald’s rest stop in Darien, Conn., went viral after it showed a Big Mac combo menu costing $18. In November, an old video of a $16 receipt for a smoky Double Quarter Pounder BLT, large fries, and a large Sprite from a McDonald’s in Post Falls, Idaho resurfaced on TikTok and went viral again.
(It’s worth pointing out that burger prices at chain restaurants can vary widely. According to the Community Economic Research Council, the retail price of a basic McDonald’s Quarter Pounder last summer was (ranged from $3.79 to $8.09 at ) in Billings, Montana. )
Concerns about burger prices are rising alongside broader concerns about food inflation. And concerns are not allayed by the argument that higher wages for fast food workers have contributed to higher prices, indicating that income inequality has narrowed.
Burger chains are also worried. So far, sales and profits have remained strong, as price increases have offset slowing customer traffic. To keep their customers coming back, burger joints are launching new marketing campaigns, some of them quite desperate.
McDonald’s is sending its Hamburger Glar on a promotional road trip, and the Big Mac is getting a major makeover. Burger King hopes you’ll want to go to its restaurants more if the cashier says, “You rule!” Then he handed her a cardboard crown. In a more restrained approach, No. 3 burger chain Wendy’s is counting on its Cinnabon roll to lure customers to breakfast.
But adding extra features and a slightly juicier patty doesn’t change the game. The iconic status of the American hamburger owes more to its cheapness than anything else. McDonald’s CEO Chris Kempczinski echoed similar sentiments during an earnings call earlier this month, saying customers making less than $45,000 a year are feeling price pressure. “From an industry perspective, we’ve actually seen cohort declines in recent quarters, especially as eating at home has become more affordable, I think,” he said.
Kempczinski said the company will focus on “affordability” and “absolute price points” in the coming months, rather than one-off deals.
The solution is not only important to a restaurant’s profit margins; If fewer Americans go to third spaces, society as a whole will be affected. First, with deep political divisions exacerbated by the polarizing effects of an election year, we may need a No. 3 more than ever. And a side of fries wouldn’t hurt.
Disclaimer: These are the author’s personal opinions.
(Except for the headline, this story has not been edited by NDTV staff and is published from a syndicated feed.)