This is what we call a great fashion show. A radically modern collection that is a dramatic reimagining of Balenciaga’s canon, presented in a truly stunning set.
A huge tent in front of Napoleon’s tomb. Its walls, floor and ceiling were covered with giant video screens that showed the new Brutalist structure as the 800 guests arrived.
Then, as the idyllic Alpine landscape blooms and the first models emerge, the opening trio wears one of founder Cristóbal’s dresses, whether in midnight blue velvet, pate plissé silk or turquoise sequins. I wore three super looks that I referenced. Each has been updated with a hip aurette, but shoulder pads sewn to the hips in the terminology of Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna.
This was followed by a heavy, sculptural coat with a faux fur funnel collar, treated with resin to give it a distressed appearance, and topped with an acetate face shield, transforming the image into giant snow-covered mountains. Ta.
Demna’s DNA gradually morphed into a dress that cleverly combined three upside-down or diagonal sweatshirts. It was a repurposed wardrobe look and had a cool street swagger to it. The wildly crumpled, asymmetrical cocktails were all attention-getters, and for good reason: They were prime examples of artistic dress-up.
Backed by a powerful soundtrack, the show featured veteran models with their arms in their sleeves. Isabeli Fontana in a ladylike coat with her arms dangling. Maggie Reiser wears a black cotton shirt dress with her arms out of the sleeves. Frankie Rader is in the trench barehanded, and Esther Cañadas is doing the same in a black leather jacket worn like an apron that exposes her back. The screen gradually became a maelstrom of his TikTokers, all marching proudly as thousands of attention-seeking young people begged for followers.
“I wanted to create a parallel idea that too much content makes it hard to concentrate. We spend so much time on screens that we forget the beautiful reality that’s out there,” says Kim. After hugging Kardashian, Demna explained.
His goal, he explained, is to understand what constitutes good taste and bad taste, which by definition is a subjective choice. That good taste, of course, comes from Cristobal’s archive, which begins with black-and-white photographs and dresses from the 1960s, and whose shoulder pads were the basis for his hip oulette.
Over time, the natural beauty of the Alps blended into a false reality, and men started wearing their beanies much lower to show that they didn’t want to see this artificial, digital world. Set to an explosive techno soundtrack, videos of multiple Parisian squares and dozens of Eiffel Towers were mashed together, giving the set an almost hallucinatory feel. The finale is a supersaturated world whose inhabitants have become cyberpunks wearing tattered lingerie. Turn your backpack into a cocktail. Lace tights, logo camisole. Military boots and cartoon villain arm pads.
However, Demna did not mix in with the modern nomadic travellers, always wearing a composite tracksuit and coat.
“Maybe they’re replacing their Balenciaga boleros with tracksuits,” laughed Demna, who hand-picked figures for each of the 800 guests.
Ours was a ceramic apple.
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