A little-known coastal town just outside London

Londoners are excited about Deal, a coastal town in Kent just 90 minutes by train from the capital.Even better, it’s virtually unknown, writes Kate Wickers

When Qantas featured Deal, Kent, in its aviation magazine as one of the 23 places to visit in 2023, no one was more surprised than Dealers, as its residents are known for their charm. I think it’s true. Not so long ago, no one had heard of this seaside town (just 8 miles from the White Cliffs of Dover), but now, thanks to high-speed trains from London’s St. Pancras station, it’s one of Britain’s most stylish It is one of the resorts along the coast.

It was 12 years ago that I fell in love with Deal’s 1930s seaside shelters that look like flying saucers and the unadorned concrete piers lined with exhausted fishermen throwing back sharks. The shimmering pebble beaches are lined with a rainbow of pastel-hued 17th-century fisherman’s huts and grand Victorian mansions, and the award-winning High Street is packed with stylish restaurants, shops, and delis. It’s a dream place in a small town.

Although the place may seem tranquil now, it was once home to taverns and brothels, so violent that in 1784 Prime Minister William Pitt sent soldiers to burn down smugglers’ ships. Don’t be fooled by the reputation. Scratch the surface and you can still find tunnels leading from house to house and secret hiding places in what is now Deal’s nature reserve. The 600-year-old Ship Inn still happily passes beer around, with old men sitting and nursing pints. A thread about the feud and murder of their ancestors.

Updown, a 17th-century farmhouse boutique hotel, opened on the city’s outskirts in 2022, providing another coveted stylish accommodation option in the area (previously the Rose on High Street The hotel was flying the only flag as an elegant accommodation). “Please make yourself at home,” is the heartfelt invitation from owners Ruth Lee and Oli Brown. They don’t care if Hunter’s boots have mud on them when they arrive for dinner after exploring their seven-acre property.

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I’m in room 1 (of seven in the main house) with pistachio-green walls and Georgian windows looking out onto the side of the house and a greenhouse lawn dotted with fruit trees. Best enjoyed from the velvet knee-high super king bed. Designer Guild Cushion. The property includes The Cottage and a brand new family suite.

Chef Oli, previously the founder of Duck Duck Goose in London’s Brixton, has had the UK’s top food critics in his grasp since opening (with a long list of celebrity chefs as guests). His menu changes weekly, but the one thing that remains consistent is hearty Italian cuisine, with a strong emphasis on seasonality rather than buying all items locally. The pasta is made fresh every day and is exquisite. All of our pastas are delicious, slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven. On Sundays, treat yourself to a traditional English roast dinner, including the best cauliflower cheese you’ve ever had.

Deal is at its busiest on Saturdays when Deal Town Market is held, selling local and French cheeses, artisan breads, homemade cakes, second-hand clothing, antiques, flowers and Kent’s finest fruit and vegetables. While you browse, munch on artisan cakes from Eat and Mess. He doesn’t hesitate to experiment with unusual flavors, such as spirea or almond, or roasted strawberry.

My top picks along the High Street include a beautiful selection of art and homewares, from reproductions of 18th-century French matchsticks to crustacean-inspired pottery to painted wooden birdhouses with shingled roofs. It’s Will & Yates (so beautiful you’ll want to send it home); the Hoxton store sells luxury (yet affordable) items like feather dusters and French soaps. And Mileage is housed in an Edwardian stable, chock-full of unique pieces that have been lovingly handcrafted or restored.

Art lovers should go to Taylor Jones & Son Gallery. There, you can enjoy an eclectic collection of contemporary art, including Christine Hodson’s mixed media scenes depicting Kent towns and white cliffs, with no pressure to buy. Richard Taylor-Jones’ own minimalist seascape photography. Also stop by Don’t Walk Walk Gallery, owned by artist Ned Horentz-Kelly. On display here is an eclectic “punk rock” collection, including Ned’s moving landscape paintings and pencil drawings by Jim More (aka Vic Reeves).

Weather permitting, pick up a gourmet picnic (think Perello olive and mackerel and homemade cucumber ciabatta) from the grocery store Arno & Co and head to the beach. From there you can watch gray seals swimming back. There is a colony of them in nearby Pegwell Bay. If not, take a stroll along Deal’s Brutalist concrete pier (the last one built in Britain in 1957). At the end is the Zadir Pier Kitchen, perfect for both summer evening sunsets and stormy winter nights, with views of his 40 km across the silver-blue Channel into France.

Cycling along the coast is probably the nicest way to spend an afternoon. You can rent bikes from Cafe Hut 55 (half day £18/$37). The path hugs the seaside, past wild gardens filled with red valerian, the striped beach huts of Kingsdown, and the charming pub of The Zetland Arms (where your mobile phone almost welcomes you to France). I will take you to the location. The team at The Rose (if you visit during lunchtime, enjoy a bowl of steamed mussels). Alternatively, cycle in the opposite direction along the Prom, passing through meadows and golf courses to the quiet medieval town of Sandwich.

Aperitifs range from a gooseberry margarita at The Secret Garden at The Rose to a glass of Bordeaux at Le Pinardier (a cozy candle-lit wine bar with occasional live music) to Smugglers Records. It depends on your mood and season. A pleasantly chaotic vinyl shop/bar (serving beers from local Deal brewery Time & Tide), and a DJ offering spontaneous sets. For anyone over 40, this place is sure to take you back to her teenage years.

If you don’t eat at Updown (and you’ll want to eat at least one night during your stay), head to Frog & Scot. The focus here is on serving local, seasonal produce, using vegetables sourced from Captain’s. Garden, a volunteer-led home garden initiative. There’s a menu of small plates to share (about half of which go to vegetables), especially the Hue (warmed stuffed pita bread) stuffed with pork belly (from Deal’s organic butcher The Black Pig). Don’t ignore bar snacks either. These are great additions. Try the whipped cod roe with pickles and radish. The newest addition to Deal’s dining scene is The Blue Pelican, a popular Japanese restaurant housed in a Georgian seaside house with a yoga room above.

Finally, take some time to wander through Deal’s delightfully spooky bijou-decorated Tudor castle. The castle was built by Henry VIII in 1539 in perfect symmetry in the shape of a Tudor rose. Anne of Cleves was staying here while the poor builder was still there, on her way from France to meet her husband-to-be Henry for the first time. The battlements, decorated with cannons, offer stunning sea views, but the most beautiful part of the castle is inside.

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Room rates at Updown start from £190/$393 including breakfast.

Updown regularly hosts special events and new for 2024 is the Kent Wine Fair on June 22nd.

There are three trains per hour from London St Pancras to Deal (two trains require one change). southeasternrail.co.uk

Find out more things to do in the UK here. visitbritain.com/en