Burberry, JW Anderson and Simone Rocha praised British design talent, but it was a wide range of emerging designers that took center stage at LFW.
Last week, London Fashion Week (LFW) celebrated its 40th editionth The anniversary marked an action-packed schedule of 43 live shows, igniting the city with unprecedented fashion enthusiasm. While a tea party was being held in Downing Street to celebrate such a momentous occasion, British design talent was rioting over some of the city’s most famous locations.
Burberry takes us into the world of nature, doubles down on its synonym for richly textured outerwear made from British and Irish wool, and surprises us with Naomi Campbell’s appearance on the catwalk. I did. Meanwhile, Erdem and Simone Rocha channeled outfits that could have come from Elspeth Catton’s wardrobe in Saltburn, including a bevy of tulle dresses, elongated leather gloves and a faux fur overhaul.
Maturity is the driving force behind much of British fashion: JW Anderson’s plush wools, cozy knit overthrows and chic gray bob, while Richard Quinn looked to the late Elizabeth to craft his collection. Inspired by Queen II, we pay homage to her regal aesthetic. Perfect for a queen.
But while many big-name brands are gaining attention, a group of emerging designers, nurtured by London’s nurturing fashion ecosystem, have emerged as the talk of the town. Injecting a fresh perspective into the industry, we’ve brought together some of the brightest rising stars who have left an indelible mark on LFW. From Olly Synder to Aaron Esch, he introduces four next-generation designers who are reshaping the fashion world.
Aaron Esch
As visitors arrived at Aaron Esch’s AW24 show, they were greeted with a Moet coupe and a glass of cigarettes. It was a seductive yet clever prelude to a collection that was all about disheveled sensuality. Esch looked to question modern consumption with his second show at LFW, paying homage to his East London roots inspired by nightlife and irreverent attitude. Turning the runway into a lowbrow enclave of indie sleaze, his collections featured ensembles that could be worn together while stopping at a corner shop. The models evoked his 1990s fashion style with sexy bias-cut dresses, eyeliner, retro sunglasses and baseball caps. Parkas featured intricate tailoring, while furry coats and sparkly pants added layers of texture and decadence.
olly cinder
Adding her name to Fashion East’s impressive roster hosting Kim Jones, Wales Bonner and Simone Rocha, Ollie Synder brings her ‘collection to the lab’ for the Fall/Winter 2020 show. ”I brought it. Embodying a penchant for fetishistic subversion of uniform tropes, Cinder is married to a world of juxtapositions between the corporate and the perverted. His sculptural shirts were paired with hip-grazing thigh-high leather boots, and thin, apparently transparent protective gear clung tightly to each model’s skin. A close-fitting “Lab” apron and his PU coated cotton raincoat were the stars of the show, and they didn’t forget the rubber overhaul, which sits at the perfect intersection of kinky and classy.
Chet Low
In case you didn’t know, Chet Lo is into spikes, all of which are on display during his AW24 collection. Inspired by the Terracotta Warriors, a collection of sculptures depicting the legions of Qin Shihuang, Lo has brilliantly revived these iconic figures in the cleverly titled Terracotta Warriors collection. The former Central Saint Martins student emphasizes balance and scale, placing his signature spikes on the sleeves, upper back, and even the belt that fastens his felt wool sarong pants. Hand-knitted paillette headdresses echo the stone helmets of the Qin Dynasty, and slightly cropped turtlenecks are worn with wool pants with twisted details at the knees.
Connor Ives
Aside from his representations of fantastical women, the main driving force behind Conor Ives’ recent collections are the real women in his life. Dubbed his “swans” in the show notes, these muses bring his creations to life, transforming the Savoy Ballroom into a lavish spectacle. If turning mash trash into treasure has always been Ives’ trademark, he’s only taken it to even greater heights with his AW24 offering. Ives chooses to use illegal safety pins he sources from eBay for his embroidery, collects bits and pieces from his studio floor, and even upcycles military surplus stock to use on jersey items. I tried it. Shirts like this take on new life when paired with spectacular lace skirts, while stunning silk bubble dresses, a piece de resistance, are born from reclaimed wall tapestries.