Amy Conway, Bobbi Brown’s global professional makeup artist, said of the beauty at Erdem’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, “The models looked like they had just come off stage, taken off their wigs, and left in Erdem coats.” “It looks like that,” he explains. “They wear intense stage make-up inspired by the famous opera singer Maria Callas, who was known as a real powerhouse.”
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Beyond the sporty hairnets and slicked-back buns often seen under stage wigs, this season’s Erdem women aren’t afraid to wear eyeliner. Callas himself had an excellent liner game, often donning elongated cat flicks on stage and off, a Conway signature modernized for today’s catwalks. “I made a thin liner. [using cult Bobbi Brown product Longwear Gel Liner in Black Ink] Then I brought it closer to the lash line,” she explains. “It was important to bring out each model’s eye shape, but most importantly to keep the liner sharp… It’s hard to get the perfect shape the first time, so cotton swabs are your best friend.”
Another feature of Callas’ memorable beauty was her glowing skin. Healthy skin is also a runway requirement. The model got ready in her 111Skin. The esthetician provided a mini-facial that combined a lymphatic drainage massage with a generous dose of a mask to leave tired skin feeling soft and hydrated. The masks were selected based on each model’s skin needs to create an excellent canvas for subsequent makeup. Congestion sufferers can try the Anti-Blemish Bio Cellulose Facial Mask and get a little sculpting thanks to the brand’s Celestial Black Diamond Lifting and Firming Facial Mask.
After her skin is at its best, Conway uses Bobbi Brown’s Longwear Weightless Foundation, explaining, “Because it’s long-wearing, it’s a perfect fit, and it makes your face look flawless.” Finished with a small amount of powder and lip serum.
You may not know much about Callas, but the queen of eyeliner is the queen of eyeliner. And with the Angelina Jolie biopic set to be released in the near future, now’s the time to start looking back at the star’s vintage photos for a wealth of beauty inspiration.