For his Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Thom Browne transforms a cabin into a winter enclave. A bare tree wearing an oversized Thom Browne down coat stood in the center of the space. One by one, the models emerged onto the scene through a window with broken glass placed behind a tree. Brown’s inspiration for this collection was Edgar Allan Poe’s 1845 poem “The Raven,” which actress Carrie Coon performed in a dramatic reading as models walked the runway. . In the poem, a bereaved student is visited by a bereaved student who is mourning the loss of his lover Lenore, who answers all his questions with the same words.
This poem was a place of inspiration for both clothing and beauty. “There are two heroes on this show: a crow and an insect,” explains lead makeup artist Isamaya French. All models wore long black claw-shaped nails, and both groups wore strong, bright red lips and monochromatic sculptural eyes. To help lift her face, French and her team buffed and smoothed her brows with Elmer’s Glue Stick. Her makeup artist then applied liquid concealer to erase her eyebrows and draw attention to her eyes. To take the story further and emphasize the center of the face, Lashify eyelash extensions were applied under the model’s natural lashes to create long, swooping, wing-like lashes. For the crow character, I polished the nose and sculpted it to evoke the impression of a bird.
On top of the crow’s head was a wig that made the hair appear to be moving. James Pesis, the show’s lead hairstylist, and his team cut the hair short and added extensions to create longer bits, all from Pesis’ newly launched hair care brand, Blue & Green. The wig was set with texture dust, which is scheduled to be released. . Once the wig is styled, apply a layer of black acrylic paint over it. Pesis and his team pre-made wire headpieces for the insects and bent them into different shapes. The result is an immersive Gothic fantasy brought to life.
Photo: Provided by Mich Cardin