Naked models, Britpop fanatics and even a show-stealing queen… the untold secrets of London Fashion Week’s 40th anniversary

It’s fashion’s hottest ticket, with celebrities, supermodels and influencers all vying for a coveted spot in the ‘Frow’ or front row.

But the influence of London Fashion Week, which kicks off this Friday and celebrates its 40th anniversary, goes far beyond glitzy designer shows and prestigious parties.

Since its humble beginnings in a Kensington car park in 1984, this annual event has shaped our lives and led British culture.

It was the inspiration behind ‘Absolutely Fabulous’, launched ‘Cool Britannia’ and launched the catwalk careers of Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Cara Delevingne.

But the event was not without its share of controversy, with one designer throwing a dead fish into the crowd and models parading naked down the runway.

From arguments over ‘heroin chic’ to Naomi Campbell’s infamous fall, we celebrate 40 years of London Fashion Week.

1980s

The brainchild of PR queen Lynne Franks and the British Fashion Council, the capital’s first fashion week took place in less than glamorous surroundings: a tent set up in the car park of the Commonwealth Institute in Kensington, west London. Ta.

But from the beginning, it featured designers like Vivienne Westwood and Betty Jackson.

Freshly graduated John Galliano made headlines in 1984 when he became a sensation with his French Revolution-themed show, throwing a dead fish into the crowd and building a glittering career.

Galliano was also responsible for putting Kate Moss on the LFW catwalk in 1989 when she was just 15 years old.

In the same year, she appeared on the cover of The Face magazine and became Britain’s most famous model.

Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, who saw the festival as a way to attract trade to the UK, held a reception for LFW designers at venue 10, but the venue was hijacked by Katharine Hamnett and the guests He took off his coat in front of him and revealed an anti-nuclear T-shirt.

Princess Diana was an early LFW supporter, hosting a reception in 1988 and attending for several years thereafter.

In the late 1980s, LFW inspired Jennifer Saunders to create the characters Edina and Patsy on the TV hit Ab Fab.

1990s

LFW was at the heart of the ’90s Cool Britannia movement, which saw the rise of Britpop bands like Blur and Oasis, Young British artists including Damien Hirst, and fashion icons led by Kate Moss.

The supermodel was also at the forefront of the “heroin chic” trend, which favored pale, haggard models with dark circles under their eyes.

However, in a forerunner of the later plus-size model trend, Roald Dahl’s granddaughter Sophie was acclaimed by designer Laney Keogh in 1997, which took place in the unlikely setting of West London’s Cobden Working Men’s Club. He made his LFW debut at the show.

Kylie Minogue was the first non-model celebrity to take part, starring alongside Antonio Berardi in 1995.

Among the LFW drama, Naomi Campbell took a tumble on the Vivienne Westwood runway in 1993.

In 1999, a robot sprayed paint on model Shalom Harlow’s white dress during the finale of the Alexander McQueen show.

McQueen’s first collection, Taxi Driver, was launched in 1993, and two years later he created High, a show that featured models wearing torn clothes to symbolize the historical “rape” of Scotland by the British. Land Rape” shocked the audience.

2000s

Victoria Beckham, fresh from leaving the Spice Girls, used Fashion Week to transition from singer to haute couture when she made her catwalk debut under designer Maria Glachvogel in 2000. suggested.

She launched her own label in 2006 after serving as an ambassador for Dolce & Gabbana and designing a line for jeans brand Rock & Republic.

Singer Björk also made headlines when she bought a swan-shaped dress at the Marjane Pejoski show in 2001 and dropped an egg while walking the red carpet wearing it at the Oscars.

The backlash against heroin chic and size-zero models came to a head in 2006 following the tragic death of 22-year-old Uruguayan star Luisel Ramos, who died of heart failure after eating salad leaves and Diet Coke for three months. Reached.

Madrid Fashion Week banned models with a body mass index below 18.5, but London Fashion Week chiefs did not comply, prompting backlash from celebrities such as Kate Winslet and Cameron Diaz. invited.

But the 1990s also saw the growth of the plus-size model trend pioneered by Sophie Dahl and others in the 1990s.

Then in 2008, pop met fashion again when Prince performed at Matthew Williamson’s show.

2010s/2020s

In 2010, 18-year-old Cara Delevingne made her debut at LFW, walking for Christopher Bailey at Burberry.

The designer found her working part-time in the company’s office.

In 2010, French wig maker Charlie Le Mindu sent models down the runway wearing nothing but hats, wigs, and towering platform boots, sparking controversy during fashion week this decade.

Then, in 2017, a protest by animal rights group Peta forced lingerie-clad models off the red carpet, and Extinction Rebellion held a “funeral” at the 2019 LFW finale.

Harry Styles was thrust into the spotlight in 2013, fueling a craze for a front row seat to A-listers alongside Sienna Miller, Kelly Osbourne and Dita Von Teese.

The late Queen also gave the event her royal approval when she appeared with Vogue boss Anna Wintour at Richard Quinn’s show in 2018, and a year later the then-Prince Charles hosted the sustainable designer Vintage. + Teamed up with Omi to promote the LFW collection.

Now, the event is more like a celebrity circus than ever, with Instagram-loving stars like Kim Kardashian and Heidi Klum flocking to take part.

Last year, Kanye West and his partner Bianca Sensori turned heads with their contrasting black and white outfits.